Southern Greenland

After a four-day crossing and 660 NM, we spend two weeks exploring South Greenland.

Another adventure begins with the crossing. Not necessarily because of the duration, but because of the current low pressure areas with lots of wind and waves, which demand respect. We are also sailing in a less developed area with constantly changing ice conditions. Nevertheless, we start with a sense of anticipation for what is to come. What counts in the end are our experiences and how we deal with them.

Once again, the first day is a bit of a struggle as the sleep-wake rhythm has not yet been established. Moreover, it gets dark again at night and a rough sea in the dark seems even more threatening. At first, the wind and waves remain strenuous. Conditions calm down on the third day and things go very well with a downwind course. On top of that, it was a sunny day. We have settled into our rhythm. Everything is calm and we are curious to see what the ice situation will be like around the entrance to Prins Christians Sund. Every six hours we now have to send a position report to the Greenland Coastguard. After a motor phase, we head towards the coast with a good sailing wind. Visibility has deteriorated somewhat, but the first chunks of ice are easy to recognise in calm seas. From 20 NM off the coast, larger chunks of ice become visible on the radar.

Ideally, we would have liked to anchor on the south-east side, but a new storm around the southern tip forces us to continue directly into Prins Christians Sund (or Ikerasassuaq in the local language). We completed the 660 NM after four days. We were travelling fast! We entered the sound happy and surprisingly fit. A sailing boat is already moored at the first mooring, an old weather station. The space is very narrow and not very inviting in the current conditions. From here we sail another 20 NM through the sound to the next anchorage. Breathtaking scenery awaits us with steep cliffs, impressive mountain massifs, glacier tongues extending into the water and icebergs in various sizes, shades of blue and shapes. After travelling alone for a long time, we come across a sailor. Due to the approaching storm, we are glad that we can anchor in the sheltered anchorage bay (Niaqonaq). We can feel the gusts and the current here too, but our anchor holds. Now it is time to adjust to the new conditions: Will the passing icebergs drift into our bay? Anchoring takes on a new dimension.

We enjoy the first few days in Greenland very much. Getting a good night's sleep, a good breakfast, the usual checks and minor repairs after the crossing, the detailed planning of our time in Greenland, the utilisation of the fresh stuff and, time and again, the joy of this magnificent place. Arriving slowly after intense days. We can't get enough of the mountains and ice on a sunny day. We pass through a fog bank and shortly before our destination, a rock massif becomes increasingly clear. Through a narrow rock entrance we reach the natural harbour of Aappilattog - a hunting and fishing village with 100 inhabitants. Colourful, simple houses framed by a magnificent backdrop. We meet very friendly people. The fish factory has been closed. What will happen to the people now? The supply boat was there yesterday and won't be back for another two weeks (if it comes...), so we are allowed to lie on the wooden jetty. We are told that the first day of school is being celebrated today. There's coffee and cake in the afternoon. That evening we hear singing and see a small firework display. On the jetty, we buy an amulet as a souvenir of a wonderful place with an uncertain future.

The journey continues into the Kangkitsoq Fjord and we pass some beautiful icebergs. High rock massifs frame the fjord and glacier tongues come down everywhere. There is a perfect anchorage at the end of the fjord, which is the starting point for our first land excursion. Once on shore small flies and midges are swarming around. Equipped with mosquito repellent, fishing rod and rifle, we go ashore. Since a polar bear was shot here in the south a month ago, we are on our guard. Fortunately, we only find mushrooms. The river might have trout or salmon, but we abandon the fishing trip without success. After careful mushroom identification, we decide to go ashore again the next day and return on board with a haul of over 4kg.

The lobster basket that has been laid out brings whelks from the depths for Gregor again. We sail towards the next anchorage (Stordalens Havn) with a space sheet, but don't trust it because of the shallows and leave Ikerasassuaq. Passing huge icebergs, we reach the anchorage at Ikigait. Outside the bay there are also very large icebergs, which fortunately have run aground and are not moving. During a short shore leave, we visit the ruins of an former Viking settlement.

We motor a long way into the Tasermiutfjord. From a distance we see whale fountains - later we only notice the smell at the anchorage - we don't see them. The wide, ice-free fjord would be ideal for sailing. Unfortunately, we have no wind. The temperatures become more pleasant as we head further into the fjord. Our walk takes us along a lake with a sandy beach and a view of the mountains with glaciers. The scenery is simply gigantic. And we heroically free a sheep from a fence in which it has become entangled. Later that evening, as another good deed, we rescue a walking frame that has taken on a life of its own in Nanortalik and is rolling down the road during our evening walk. Here, after a week in Greenland, we are moored on the jetty in the southernmost town. It is good to meet a few people again and watch the huge icebergs from a safe distance. Today, for the first time, it feels like the sun is really shining and it's warmer than usual.

We still have a few days planned in Greenland. However, we start to prepare for the crossing to Canada and monitor the weather. As part of this, we keep a close eye on Hurricane Ernesto and its path around Nova Scotia and Newfoundland.

Meanwhile, in Uunartoq, we go to the most magnificent natural swimming pool we have ever visited. Heading back to Uunartoq, we pass impressive icebergs again, which are simply even more beautiful in the sunshine. Even set sail. No sooner have we arrived than the dinghy is ready for shore leave with a hot pot. All alone, we sit in 37-degree water with a view of huge icebergs and, in the second row, a beautiful mountain landscape. It is mid August and the pleasant temperatures and sunshine give us that summer feeling. That continues the next day in the village of Alluitsup Pa. Anchored in the harbour entrance between flat granite rocks. The atmosphere is somewhat reminiscent of southern countries or the Norwegian archipelago. Ashore, we first come across a kind of ghost town. Again, the fish factory has been closed, the buildings look very run-down and the first houses are empty. Then the town winds around a few small bays and we meet people, see an open supermarket and a new church. Nonetheless, it is somewhat sad to see how people live here. A lot of things are collected in front of the houses. It looks like small scrap yards. We meet two young men who tell us about their start-up company: They have bought the buildings of the old fish factory and want to get into the algae business. A German company has already placed a test order. We hope that the seaweed business will give the village a livelihood again.

For our last few days in Greenland, we spend time in Qaqortoq, the largest town in South Greenland. Here we get a little ‘big city feeling’ and get ready for the crossing. On 20th August, we check out at the police station and soon set sail for crossing the Labrador Sea to Canada!