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Faroe Islands

We arrive in Tórshavn on 26 May after 372 nautical miles and 2.5 days and spend just over two weeks on the islands. Our crossing starts under engine power. There were now three of us travelling. We are accompanied by our friend Teresa. At the beginning of the trip, the Parasailer is allowed to go up briefly, only to be recovered again straight away. The predicted light wind is unfortunately a real calm. We can finally sail from the afternoon. We have a rough first night with heavy waves from the side. However, we make good speed. During the night we reach the extensive ‘Magnus oil rig area’ north-east of the Shetlands. The towers are flashing everywhere and the chart is filled with navigation marks. At one point we sail round a large cluster and navigate safely between two other towers after making radio contact. Night remains clear and a marvellous early sunrise delights Gregor and Teresa on their watch. Changing direction brings some calm to the crossing, at least until a roller on the mainsheet comes loose from its mooring. Since the sheet runs through two rollers, nothing happened apart from the fright, but fortunately all the loose parts are on deck and we can easily repair it. Even if you check before setting off, you're never completely safe from such small surprises. With a bit of fog, we continue, but there is no ship to be seen on the radar for miles around.

On the third day, the waves calm down considerably and we sail directly towards the Faroe Islands with a good beam reach wind. Before the island of Nólsoy, the ‘underwater concert’ begins and the current is noticeable and visible.

However, Aegir is a ‘big girl’ and we sail relatively relaxed to the harbour entrance. The harbour is well filled with sailing yachts but we are able to find a good spot.

Before leaving, we already knew that there had been a widespread strike throughout the archipelago since mid-May. Food supplies are affected and diesel/petrol is no longer being sold to individuals.

Port workers, cleaning staff, transport, healthcare and childcare are on strike.

Supermarkets are emptying day by day. Unfortunately, the rubbish bins are overflowing and the seagulls are exacerbating the waste problem. A rental car with a half-full tank is available and we are already calculating our petrol supply from the dinghy for our exploration of the island. We are well equipped and therefore very relaxed about the strike situation. Overall, the atmosphere on the islands is very calm.

Thanks to the week in a hire car, we can explore the archipelago. The first island we visit is Vágar. We are not at all bothered by the mixed weather. Dressed in rainproof clothing, we hike along the cliffs and watch the first puffins - such beautiful birds.

During our round trip, we buy a large bundle of rhubarb at a roadside stall and enjoy the ‘spoils’. We would be happy to buy eggs, but unfortunately they are nowhere to be found at the moment. In Eysturoy, we walk up the highest mountain in the Faroe Islands, Slaettaratindur (880 metres). Luckily, the ground is quite dry, the sun even peeps out and we make good progress up the steep grassy slope and down again safely.

An impressive cliff walk follows in Gjógv. Nature's play of colours becomes magnificent as the sun rises in the afternoon. We are amazed by the colours and enjoy. The northern island of Kalsoy is visited by ferry. The myths are our motto for the day: we encounter the legend of the seal woman in the form of a statue in Mikladalur and end up on the edge of an impressive cliff at the Kallur lighthouse, standing in front of the ‘James Bond tombstone’. And the day ends with the appropriate film ‘James Bond 007: No Time to Die’ for us.

For the annual North Island Festival in Klaksvik, we take a studio flat there for two nights. It's mainly a festival for the locals. The reason for our arrival is the national rowing regatta.

Another highlight is a challenging hike up the third highest mountain in the Faroe Islands - Villingadalsfjall (841 metres). The northernmost point of the Faroe Islands is on the island of Viðoy.We make the most of the early sunshine and are rewarded with a wonderful island panorama on the ascent.

The first week is followed by rain and plenty of wind. We therefore stay in Tórshavn for the time being, meet sailors from Norway/Spitsbergen again (Dee and Molly from SY Wings), do some boat work and make detailed plans for the onward journey.

However, winter has returned to Iceland at the beginning of June. A severe depression brings heavy snow with travel warnings on the island. We are excited to see what awaits us.

Before we set sail for our final departure, we sail to the island of Nólsoy. Here we get to see the marvellous puffins up close once again and go on a long final hike - once again after five days in glorious sunshine.

For our crossing to Iceland, we then position ourselves in Vestmanna on the island of Streymoy.


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